Thursday, January 6, 2011

On a rainy day in January, I remember Corsica last summer

Sunset over Porto by Keren Bensoussan
Corsica is the French version of Sardinia. It is an island that belongs to France just as Sardinia is an island that belongs to Italy. Since it is close to Italy, Corsicans often speak Italian as well as Corsican which sounds like a mix between Sardo, the Sardinian language, and Italian. I could easily converse in both French and Italian with the locals but English was clearly not part of the mix.

Creek beneath a bridge near Corte by Keren Bensoussan


Many comparisons are made between the two islands but two of the biggest differences I found were these: For one, Corsica is small.

We drove around the island starting from the south, moving up the west coast to the top of the Cap and then back down the east coast. Before reaching south again, we drove inside and all the way up to the highest mountainous areas all in five days. Many people thought we were crazy for doing so, but having the desire to do this showed us just how different each pole actually was, in a short and succinct vision.

In a nutshell, the south is popular and always full of tourists, the west has very windy roads and breathtakingly beautiful views, the north tip is the friendliest and the poorest, the east is the least friendly and also the least interesting, and the center of Corsica is the greenest and the most adventurous.

Views from Cap Corse by Keren Bensoussan
I had heard that Corsica was wild and rugged and found that it was true. Corsican nature is stunning, direct, unforgiving and uncompromising. The roads in the high mountains are narrow and take you close enough to the edge that you can actually embrace the beauty and make it yours for the day. But then don't be too sure of yourself because as you leave the bliss of the well cared for west coast and make your way up to the northern tip, you will be met with the kind of striking but violent beauty that only a beautiful but crazy French woman can launch without explanation. Sort of like a classic French love slap.

Getting whipped by a 100 mile/hour wind at the old windmill at the very top of Cap Corse by Keren Bensoussan

View from Cap Corse by Keren Bensoussan
Corsica is also known for its rebels who wish to separate from France. But being half French, I would say that revolution is in the blood of the French any way you slice it.

Napolean was Corsican and then lived in Parma with his second wife, the Italian Maria Luigia. I happened to have lived in Parma, Italy for eight months and found that it resembled more an Italian version of Paris (aptly named Little Paris) than anything Corsican. And while I enjoyed the fashion and food in Parma to my heart's content, in Corsica I enjoyed doing crazier things like jumping off cliffs and white water rafting on my back. But I don't think I'll ever do that again.

This leads me to the other difference. I had mentioned only two because they struck me the most. Inasmuch as Corsica is wild and rugged, Sardinia is sweet and gentle. Corsica is smaller but has more variety. You can go to the beach and you can go skiing. You can go hiking in the high mountains and horseback riding in the hills, and you can drink a café-crème in Bastia while sitting at a table outdoors and watching the people go by.  There are lots of outlets and stores on the east coast, so you can also go shopping (which I did- the prices are better than on the west coast).

And here is another comparison to make my point: whilst Corsican rebels are in your face angry with their political agendas, Sardinian bandits hide out in tiny mountainous villages and only come out to kidnap. Not to say that the bandits are any sweeter than the rebels, but Sardinians are known to be reserved. It's all part of the environment.

Corsican roads by Keren Bensoussan
French bull by Keren Bensoussan
Symbol of Corsica on TV channel in Bastia by Keren Bensoussan

How did the image of a blindfolded slave make its way onto the Corsican flag? This question often comes up mainly because many people find it disturbing.

Although I heard it was a myth originating from a love story, I find it kind of hard to believe that a poor moor made it on the flag for this reason. (In that case why not put Romeo on the flag of Italy?)

More concrete facts of how the symbol (which also resembles the Sardinian flag quite a bit due to the Aragons visit on both islands) made it onto the Corsican flag can be found here : www.corsica.net.

I'm glad I visited and I'm glad I live so close by. Corsica is definitely worth a visit!

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